Tag Archives: surfing

Surfing the Toilets

Yep, that’s right. We nicknamed one of our favorite breaks the “Toilets” because — well, they’re straight out from the port-o-lets on the beach.

And today, surfing the toilets was beautiful. I admit, it was sort of crowded — not a full-on Holiday Reversal (see previous post about that) but pretty darn near close.

The best part (aside from the the water being as warm as Hawaii) was that the waves were non-stop, perfect A frames. Plenty enough for everybody.

We all agreed that this has been an amazing summer of surf.

Hope it has been for you too!

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Holiday Reversal

I probably shouldn’t be telling you this, but David and I always look forward to the “Holiday Reversal”.

Simply put, this means that just when you think the crowds are going to be the absolute worst — Labor Day Weekend, Memorial Day, 4th of July, etc. — it turns out that everyone else has stayed home, probably because they think the beach is going to be too crowded.

It’s an amazing phenomenon.

Of course, there’s also the Double Reversal, which happens when people like us do flock to the beach, thinking it will be uncrowded because everyone else is staying home due to the holiday.

And naturally, there’s the Triple Reversal, which brings us full circle.

Today, smack in the middle of the Labor Day Weekend (which coincides with my very own birthday, by the way!) we did indeed enjoy the good old-fashioned Holiday Reversal.

We capped off our uncrowded session with another traditional holiday activity: shopping the sales. At our favorite surf shop (George’s DBC Ride Shop in San Clemente) I scored a great pair of sandals and a new (used) 6’0″ Bourton from Australia.

My new 6'0" Burton

My new 6'0

Happy Birthday, indeed!

P.S. If you enjoy the Yoga for Surfers blog, please forward it to someone you know! And, you can always subscribe at the link to the right, so you’ll always know when the new topics are posted!

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Red Bull

It’s funny, because I don’t even drink the stuff. (Trust me … you don’t want to see me on caffeine!)

But Red Bull is what I focus on what I’m paddling for a wave.

It all started when a surfing buddy of ours (not naming any names, Sean) commented on my laid-back paddling style. “Looks like Peg forgot her Red Bull,” he joked to my hubby David.

No wonder I was having trouble dropping into waves. My paddling power was fizzling right at the moment when I should have picked up the pace.

Now, our rally cry is “Red Bull — Red Bull!” whenever we want to cheer the other into a big wave.

I’m sure the other surfers in the lineup have no idea what we’re talking about…that is, until now!

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Ocean Magic

I don’t know about you, but I get some of my best ideas when I’m out surfing.

It’s as if my creative juices are fueled by the energy of the ocean and the vastness of the sky.

Of course, this drives David a little crazy, because I’m always saying “Hey, how about this idea?!” Lately, I’ve been keeping a pad of paper and a pen in my surf backpack so I can be sure to jot down all my brainstorms. Otherwise, it seems that those little inspirations disappear as quickly as they come.

But when I’m in the water, I feel so open to inspiration, so connected to creation that the ideas are literally flowing through me, effortlessly. I’ve simply got to catch them and corral them so I can develop them later when the time is right.

Most of my ideas are about future articles to write and DVDs to create. A couple of titles in the works include “Heal Your Back” and “Yoga Secrets”. I get a lot of requests along those lines.

How great is that? I do my best “working” while I’m surfing!

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How Could it Be?

Pre-surf stretch

Pre-surf stretch

A Sunday afternoon in August — perfect surf, warm water, clear blue skies….and no one out?! No one out but me and David, that is. We surfed for a couple of hours, splitting peaks (I mostly took the lefts) and surfing ourselves silly. We finally had to go in because we were just plain surfed out.

You know the feeling, I’m sure: tired, but it a good way. Hungry, but in a good way. A little salty, a little sunburned, but all of it in a good way.

No wonder I love my special break so much. It feels like home.

Have you had a great session lately?


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Thank You, Life!

I’ve had the good fortune of swimming and surfing with dolphins quite a few times in my life, but today was like no other.

David and I surfed our favorite break, and it was surprisingly uncrowded for a beautiful Sunday afternoon. Sure, the conditions weren’t that great, but at least the water was warm and we were practically the only people out. I caught a handful of rights with a left thrown in here and there. Sort of a peaky windswell. I couldn’t complain!

Then the dolphins arrived.

This was a pretty big pod — maybe 8 or 10 or more. And a few of them were quite large, too.

I’ve always said that dolphins like to come in on a set. We’d been waiting out a lull, so the dolphins were a welcomed sight. We hoped they would surf a wave — that’s always so breathtaking, to witness the true masters of the surf!

And a couple of them did launch themselves — elegantly, effortlessly, spectacularly — right in front of us.

But what really gave us a catch in our throats was how they continued to swim and glide and romp right next to us — and I mean right next to us. Under us, around us, with their fins close enough to grab on to. (I had a dream like that once, and it was so real, I could feel the sandpaper texture of their skin as I held onto the fin and had the ride of my life!)

It seemed that my dream was coming true.

The dolphins stayed and frolicked for over 30 minutes, playfully catching a few more waves, beckoning us to join them.

It was as if we were surfing with a great group of friends.

And we were.

Thank you dolphins, thank you life!

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