Tag Archives: good waves

Searching for Man’s Land

Have you ever had one of those sessions where it seems like you’re paddling around in no-man’s land?

That’s what happened to me this afternoon.

And the thing is, it was 4-6′ and glassy — a perfect fall day in Southern California. I paddled out with David (James showed up later) but I could not track down the peak I was after. It looked like there was a nice left — but wait, there’s a right! — and I found myself chasing down those darn peaks without getting anything in return.

I was, indeed, in no-man’s land.

The good news is the swell is supposed to last for a couple more days. Hopefully, tomorrow, I’ll be right where I want to be: in man’s land.

Hope you are too.

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How Could it Be?

Pre-surf stretch

Pre-surf stretch

A Sunday afternoon in August — perfect surf, warm water, clear blue skies….and no one out?! No one out but me and David, that is. We surfed for a couple of hours, splitting peaks (I mostly took the lefts) and surfing ourselves silly. We finally had to go in because we were just plain surfed out.

You know the feeling, I’m sure: tired, but it a good way. Hungry, but in a good way. A little salty, a little sunburned, but all of it in a good way.

No wonder I love my special break so much. It feels like home.

Have you had a great session lately?


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