Monthly Archives: September 2008

Where is Cali?

David and I were born and bred in Southern California.

Still, we have never been able to figure out where, exactly, Cali is.

In fact, we had never heard of Cali until it started showing up in surf mags alongside pictures that looked like home.

But around these parts, calling California “Cali” is like calling San Francisco “Frisco”.

It just ain’t done.

In fact, referring to California as Cali just makes you sound like a New Jersey loan shark. (No offense — it’s an inside joke.)

Anyway, just wanted set the record straight!


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Back to the Beach

There’s something in the air — and it smells like fall.

Can you feel it?

There’s a change in the light, in the air, in the feel of the day. Somehow, I just know, it’s time to go back to school.

But the thing is, I haven’t been a student for over 20 years.

Nonetheless, my internal clock tells me that it’s fall, and that means to break out the sweaters, start making hot chocolate, and be on the lookout for Halloween candy (oh wait, scratch that last bit.)

Best of all, autumn heralds some of the best surf here in Southern California. (We’ve had insane nonstop waves for a few days and that will continue, thanks also to the WCT event starting up at Trestles. Lowers never fails to deliver.)

The scent of autumn somehow makes me feel like I need to stock up on school supplies (I can always used more college-lined notebooks and Pilot pens) and pack a school lunch.

But since I’m not going back to school, I’ll think in terms of going back to the beach.

After all, now that Labor Day has come and gone and summer is “officially” over, it’s time to get back to the beach, to take back the beach, to enjoy, once more, the relatively uncrowded waves at my own home break.


I’m hoping I can keep the fullsuit in the garage for a few more weeks and eke out more time trunkin’ it. (I’ve never been a fan of springsuits …. Somehow I go from bathing suit to shortie to fullsuit and back again.)

Oh, by the way, David has already usurped the new Bourton. Hmm… that’s okay. I’m still loving my Merrick.

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Surfing the Toilets

Yep, that’s right. We nicknamed one of our favorite breaks the “Toilets” because — well, they’re straight out from the port-o-lets on the beach.

And today, surfing the toilets was beautiful. I admit, it was sort of crowded — not a full-on Holiday Reversal (see previous post about that) but pretty darn near close.

The best part (aside from the the water being as warm as Hawaii) was that the waves were non-stop, perfect A frames. Plenty enough for everybody.

We all agreed that this has been an amazing summer of surf.

Hope it has been for you too!

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Holiday Reversal

I probably shouldn’t be telling you this, but David and I always look forward to the “Holiday Reversal”.

Simply put, this means that just when you think the crowds are going to be the absolute worst — Labor Day Weekend, Memorial Day, 4th of July, etc. — it turns out that everyone else has stayed home, probably because they think the beach is going to be too crowded.

It’s an amazing phenomenon.

Of course, there’s also the Double Reversal, which happens when people like us do flock to the beach, thinking it will be uncrowded because everyone else is staying home due to the holiday.

And naturally, there’s the Triple Reversal, which brings us full circle.

Today, smack in the middle of the Labor Day Weekend (which coincides with my very own birthday, by the way!) we did indeed enjoy the good old-fashioned Holiday Reversal.

We capped off our uncrowded session with another traditional holiday activity: shopping the sales. At our favorite surf shop (George’s DBC Ride Shop in San Clemente) I scored a great pair of sandals and a new (used) 6’0″ Bourton from Australia.

My new 6'0" Burton

My new 6'0

Happy Birthday, indeed!

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