A Sunday afternoon in August — perfect surf, warm water, clear blue skies….and no one out?! No one out but me and David, that is. We surfed for a couple of hours, splitting peaks (I mostly took the lefts) and surfing ourselves silly. We finally had to go in because we were just plain surfed out.
You know the feeling, I’m sure: tired, but it a good way. Hungry, but in a good way. A little salty, a little sunburned, but all of it in a good way.
No wonder I love my special break so much. It feels like home.
Have you had a great session lately?